The Vienna Beef Store Now That S A Reuben

• Mike Sula
• The Vienna Beef Store’s Reuben

Last week while I was fulminating about the overpriced sloppy reproduction of a Reuben at Bergstein’s NY Deli, all I could think about was the Reuben served at the Vienna Beef Factory Store, the cafe and retail operation at the foot of the venerable meat processor’s sprawling plant near the perpetually constipated intersection of Damen, Elston, and Fullerton. Is it the Platonic ideal of a Reuben? No. Is it like the one at Dillman’s, built on that sublime house-made rye? No. Is it even remotely like the skyscraper at Manny’s (which often runs too dry)? Of course not.