Gefilte fish—the traditional Passover dish of ground whitefish mixed with matzo meal, egg, vegetables, and seasonings—can be divisive, inspiring headlines like “Gefilte Fish: Is It Really That Bad?” and “Gefilte Fish: Why, Oy Why?” But until Adam Wendt of the Delta challenged Ashlee Aubin to create a dish with gefilte fish, the chef at Salero and Wood restaurants had tried only homemade versions, which he thought were pretty good. Wendt, however, specified that Aubin had to use Manischewitz brand of gefilte fish in gelled broth, which turned out to be a very different beast.

  The result, Aubin says, tastes mostly like vegetables and horseradish, with “a distinct seafood flavor at the end.” He adds that, while the dish actually tastes pretty good, “it’s definitely not ever going on one of my menus.”